Monday, February 15, 2010

Mary Mahoney's Old French House - Biloxi, Mississippi

Mary Mahoney’s
Old French House
116 Rue Magnolia
Biloxi, MS 39530
Monday-Saturday: 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.
Closed Sunday

By Jane Feehan

A stay in Biloxi requires a visit to Mary Mahoney’s for lunch or dinner. A meal here is always a special occasion because of the ambiance of the historic 18th-century building, not because of the food.

It’s a hit and miss menu. I’ve been here several times and have yet to think or say “wow” but it’s not bad. On occasion, fish I’ve ordered was not fresh but frozen and the salad was just OK. On a recent visit I ordered a cup of seafood gumbo ($8) and, nicely seasoned, it was quite good. I chose a seafood salad plate ($12.95) for the main luncheon course. With a scoop of shrimp and a scoop of crab salad the dish was low on the flavor meter and high in mayonnaise content. Ordinary but ample. It came with hardboiled egg and tomato wedges and a couple of large stuffed olives. An excellent Bloody Mary with pickled green beans and olives made up for a lot. Also, the bread brought before the meal was piping hot.

Lunch specials for $13.95 include salad, entrée and a vegetable and feature items such as grilled salmon or crab cakes and items of the day. Entrées off the specials list average about $18. They serve steaks, chicken, and a variety of seafood, including fried platters. Dinner entrées average $30.

Mary Mahoney’s, close to the beach and the Beau Rivage Hotel and Casino, boasts two well-preserved waterlines for customer viewing - one of when Hurricane Camille inundated the restaurant, another, much higher one, marking Hurricane Katrina’s visit. Unbelievable. Also of interest is a live oak tree estimated to be about 2,000 years old named “The Patriarch” in their courtyard.

The restored plantation house provides a number of dining rooms perfect for intimate dining or large parties. Service: Excellent. ©2010 Jane Feehan All rights reserved.

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